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1 Bedford Cloth
A kind 'of russel cord of all wool. Used as dress goods and is a variety of French woollen poplin. Mostly in drab colour. -
2 Bedford Cords
Fabrics having cords or ribs in the direction of the warp produced by interweaving the weft in plain or twill order with alternate groups of warp threads. The ribs may be emphasised by the addition of wadding or stuffing warp threads. Generally woven in dobby looms. All cotton, all wool or mixed. A standard cotton cloth is made 36-in., 144 X 100 per inch, 40's/50's, with 20's wadding ends. The diagram gives the weave. When the face ends X are weaving plain in one section, the face ends are lifted in the other section, this is for two picks, and then the weave is reversed. The plain ends are separated in the reed.
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Another cloth is made 30-in. from 24's warp, 36's weft, with every seventh cord made from coloured yarn. A heavy cloth is made for use as riding breeches in many qualities. Also made with wool yams. The illustration (A) shows a fancy Bedford cord for dress goods. There are ten padding cords to the inch, as shown by the broader cord stripes. These dress goods styles are made from a two-fold warp and single weft, all Egyptian yams. Fabric B is a three-colour fancy weave.
The term " London Cord " is given to a heavy cotton Bedford Cord, woven with a 2 X 1 twill face. One quality is 88 X 80 per inch, 16/20's. Frequently padding ends are used to give prominence to the cords. Bedford Cord shirtings are made from the 144 X 110 cloth, usually 33/34-in. and with coloured stripes
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3 Crocodile Cloth
A good quality of dress cloth, woven from woollen yarns. The face has a Bedford cord stripe effect and the fabric is woven with the jacquard. -
4 Shirting
When this word is used singly it refers to a plain cloth made of grey yarns heavily sized, 34-in. to 45-in. wide, various lengths from 30 yards to 40 yards, 64 to 72 reed and picks, and 36's to 40's warp and weft. Shipped in the loom state to India and China. Similar cloth made from pure sized yarn, is bleached for the China, India, home trade, and other markets. Other shirting fabrics are Bedford cord, brown, cellular, Ceylon, grandrelle. Harvard, Oxford, llama, Madras, pique, poplin, regatta, Rugby, Rochelles, sateen, taffeta, tennis, union, white, Zanzibar, and Zephyr (see under each name) -
5 Welts, Woven
WELTS, WOVENBoth the terms pique and toilet welt are used to describe a distinctive class of fabric -which is produced in plain and in figured styles. The distinctive feature of a pique or welt consists in well-defined rounded ribs running across the cloth from selvedge to selvedge, e.g., contrary to Bedford cords in which the ribs run down the cloth parallel with the selvedges. Pique welts require two warps and two or more wefts. The warp ends are arranged 2 face 1 back, and the latter are coarser than the face and are woven with greater tension, as they interweave with the cutting picks to form the troughs between the ribs. Sometimes wadding picks are inserted between the back and the face warps to throw the ribs into greater prominence. -
6 Boyaux Reppes
A heavy-figured repp cloth in which Bedford Cord stripes are introduced. Made from silk warp and a doubled cotton weft. An example is made 156 X 80 per inch, 60 denier warp, 2/100's cotton weft. -
7 Cote De Cheval
A French fabric made with bold warp ribs similar to a Bedford cord. Cotton and wool or silk yams are used. The term actually denotes a ribbed cloth for riding Garments. -
8 Stuffer Threads
A term used in some districts for the thick threads used as padding in such fabrics as Bedford cords and which lie between the face and back of the cloth, inter-weaving with no threads. These yarns are usually of cheaper material than the face yarns.
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